As we approach Waypoint Bravo, we are seeing more and more fragments of giant kelp, strands 20m long being swept eastwards by the Southern Ocean swell. This is a sure sign that we are passing to the leeward of the Kerguelen Islands, a small cluster of islands that straddle the Antarctic Convergence Zone. It's day 23 and we are 2,500 miles from Cape Town. The last couple of weeks have been non-stop gales of 30 - 45 knots and freezing temperatures. However so far, touch wood, we have not had a really scary Southern Ocean storm of 60 knots plus.
So, now that we are about two thirds of the way through our second Southern Ocean leg, how do some the crew feel about the experience so far? Despite, the cramped, cold and generally brutal conditions some of us are enjoying our Southern Ocean experience. As John Stewart put it, 'we didn't pay £27,000 to have a miserable time. We signed up to race around the world. The team camaraderie has been great and seeing things such as the Southern Lights in their full technicolor brilliance, pods of whales and the indescribable power and of the giant Southern Ocean rollers has made this adventure all the more worthwhile'.
For Goldie, this experience has left her with an overawing sense of the power of nature. Andrew, one of our helms agrees, 'helming has been truly exhilarating. We have been alternating the helms every 30 minutes, as there is a limit to how much cold, stinging spray and being knocked off your feet you can take. However, here I am, deep in the Southern Ocean steering a 72-foot racing yacht - I am living my dream!!'
Racing in the Southern Ocean is tough, but without that challenge none of us would have signed up. As Giles explains, 'There is little finesse to bashing into 40-foot waves; this leg is all about endurance and survival and so far we appear to be doing that quite well. However every so often, we climb a huge roller and surf down the other side at break neck speed. As we accelerate down the back of the wave I think, wow, this is awesome. I am one of the luckiest people alive!' Christian echoes these thoughts, 'when I am standing at the bow, it feels like I am on a different planet. The waves are incredible and should not be underestimated. Given a little respect, they let you pass and you feel like a conqueror'. The Southern Ocean is one of the wildest, untamed places on earth. It is the Mount Everest of sailing.
So hardship and sacrifice are part of the experience, but they do not dominate it. As Warren put it, 'I will only sail across the Southern Ocean once, but I will be telling my children about it for the rest of my life'. As always, Major has the last word and he sums up our feelings very well, 'The Southern Ocean is what the Global Challenge is all about and so far that challenge has not disappointed us'.
Giles Mackey
Dubbed 'the world's toughest yacht race' Global Challenge 2004-2005 goes the 'wrong way' around the world against the prevailing winds and currents. The race started on Sunday 3rd October from Gunwharf Quays in Portsmouth (UK) and covered 30,000 miles to Buenos Aires, Argentina; Wellington, New Zealand; Sydney, Australia; Cape Town, South Africa; Boston, USA, La Rochelle France and back to Portsmouth in July 2005. These are the daily logs of BP Exporer.
Monday, March 21, 2005
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