Spirit of Sark bashing through the waves
After an agonising last few miles, Spirit of Sark managed to overtake BG SPIRIT, battle through 40 knots of wind and take the Leg 2 crown. A jubilant and bearded skipper, Duggie (far too busy to shave!) was ecstatic as he came in first. Last time he raced into New Zealand he was a Crew Volunteer (aboard the yacht Interspray), this time he's a winning skipper. Not only that but he's taken the record, originally set by Conrad Humphreys in the BT Global Challenge 2000/01. Conrad, who went on to win the BT Global Challenge, now racing in the Vendee Globe came into Wellington in a time of 36 days 10hrs 53 min 39 Secs. Spirit of Sark's was 36d 7h 2m 33s!
A look back on Leg 2
Spirit of Sark then was the first yacht to round Cape Horn. After Cape Horn and the subsequent change in the weather, Spirit of Sark hung on to their first place, but only by a small margin, and they swapped back and forth over the next few days with BG SPIRIT, their adversary for much of the leg. After holding the lead for 10 days, Spirit of Sark lost it to BG SPIRIT who made a bold move to the front. However, by Day 25, Spirit of Sark were back in the lead after making the most of the winds changing up to gale force and putting the whole fleet though their entire sail wardrobe! On Day 28 (better known as Christmas Day), Spirit of Sark were still the Global Challenge No 1, leading the way as thoughts turned towards friends and family at home.
Neck-and-neck race with BG SPIRIT
The following day, after a month at sea, an approaching high-pressure system hit the leaders, enabling BP Explorer to catch up and take the lead by Day 30. The light winds were about to pass with a bashing 35 knots from the northwest. However, they were back in the lead, and held on to it doggedly for the next 3 days, until BG SPIRIT managed to catch a slightly better route around the next high-pressure system, and forced Spirit of Sark into second place as they crossed the international date line, skipping 24 hours and missing midnight New Year's Eve altogether! Spirit of Sark fights a massive rear guard action over the next 48 hours, holding off BP Explorer from behind and gradually catching up. By 9am GMT on Day 37, they are just three miles behind as they approach New Zealand. They took the lead in the final hours! Remarkable.
BP Explorer takes second
The champagne corks are popping following an awesome 2nd place battle, which was won - just - by BP Explorer. They were neck and neck right the way through to end with BG SPIRIT but found the ace and crept past! Almost from nowhere BP Explorer shook off third place and decided to contest and take second, very nearly taking first place victory from Spirit of Sark.
BG SPIRIT takes 3rd
BG SPIRIT has finished in third place following a phenomenal battle between Spirit of Sark and BP Explorer. Skipper Andy Forbes and his crew were out there leading just 12 hours ago but were piped to the post, in the 11th hour, by Spirit of Sark (winners) and BP Explorer (2nd), who just managed to find the right wind. BG SPIRIT were marching through in first but got parked in one of those frustrating wind holes, which drive the crew so crazy they literally want to jump out and swim the boat in! A podium place is a very proud place for Andy and his spirits to sit in, particularly given the pace of racing during this leg.
The LEJOG cycling route is one of the ultimate road bike holidays in the UK, offering cyclists a chance to immerse themselves in some of the best scenery the UK has to offer. The route includes: The rugged Cornish coastline, the bleak beauty of Dartmoor, Quintessential English villages. Wooded river valleys, dramatic lakes, lochs, and mountains
Showing posts with label Leg2. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Leg2. Show all posts
Friday, January 7, 2005
Thursday, January 6, 2005
Leg 2 Day 37 : Wellington, NZ
Wow!!!!!!!! Focus, tension, excitement and finally relief - that's how the 10 hours after my last log felt. I had just finished writing my log, when I found out we were only 8 miles behind the leaders.
I was shocked; we'd worked so hard over the previous few days and our gains had been painfully small. I thought, maybe we'll get a chance to pile on the pressure over the last few miles...
Then I went on deck to begin my watch. It was 6am and I got my first glimpse of New Zealand's rugged mossy green slopes, under the dramatic and foreboding clouds of storms past, or to come. The sun was just rising and the cloudy horizon had a straw gold warmth and pink tinge - it was beautiful, one of the most beautiful scenes I've ever seen, significantly enhanced by the sight of land and all that means when you have been at sea for 37 days. My thoughts were drifting.
Then, the boat started to heel dramatically, the wind leapt from 5 to 25 knots and it was back into action, changing down sails to control the boat as the weather rapidly deteriorated. Out of nowhere, came the unmistakeable yellow sails of a Challenge yacht, about a mile behind us. Had the trailing fleet caught us, surely not, but it couldn't be BG SPIRIT or Spirit of Sark...?? It was.
Without even a second to grab the binoculars and confirm its identity, we knew it had to be one of the leaders. All the hard work had paid off and for once, luck had bestowed kind winds and the opportunity to prove ourselves - it was going to be a close, tense 100 miles. I felt an incredible sense of concentration and focus - I wanted to win. We had the opportunity and I really believed we could steal victory from under the noses of Spirit of Sark and BG SPIRIT.
I sensed the rest of the crew felt the same - we wanted to give it our best shot. People, who'd minutes ago gone off watch for a well-deserved rest came back on deck - they wanted to be part of it, they wanted to win too. The conditions kept worsening; the sea state was horrible, steep violent waves that threw our boat around, our bow submerged in a white aggressive foam. The wind hit 50 knots on the nose - amazingly, these were the worst conditions we'd experienced since leaving Argentina. Yet, I felt good, weeks of hard slog and fatigue meant nothing now. I was powered by adrenaline and so were my crewmates. We were all on deck, sitting on the rails, every kilo of body weight being used to control our heel and facilitate maximum forward speed.
Spirit of Sark appeared on the horizon, 2-3 miles ahead. We battled, changed sails, matching our opponents tack for tack. The bright orange handkerchief, our storm staysail was dropped, a sure sign of extreme conditions. I was clutching onto the metal stay removing the hanks as a helicopter circled filming the drama from above. Sometimes we gained, sometimes we dropped back. We were zeroed in on Spirit of Sark and glancing nervously backwards at BG SPIRIT.
6 hours later as we passed Bluff Point, the approach to Wellington Harbour, we were still in the same positions and the tension had not abated. I was beginning to wane from the effort of constant sail changes, 2 or 3 times we'd come close to losing a sail overboard, the massive waves that swept the bow claiming everything that was not securely tethered - thank goodness for my safety harness. I munched some hobnobs and cereal bars, the last of our 'treats' and I felt good again.
Spirit of Sark had slipped a mile or 2 head, and BG SPIRIT was nipping at our heels. We tacked to the outer edges of the channel, our navigator popping up every few minutes to shout a warning or an instruction to tack. I was on the yankee sail winch, the biggest foresail. Our winches were creaking and screaming, clogged with salt from the southern ocean - even they wanted a rest.
It was about 1pm now, Spirit of Sark had just finished and we had one final tack to make, the crucial final tack that would determine our position. Earlier a ferry had crossed our bow forcing us to tack early and allowing BG SPIRIT to get close, too close. The pressure on this tack was enormous; it had to be perfect. I could see the tension on our skipper's face, we all felt it, he shouted 'lee ho' - we tacked.
It was good, but had we left an opening for BG SPIRIT to cut in on the inside of the point? They were trying hard, we watched nervously. As we passed the headland we saw the depth meter drop, it was going to be very close. Then BG SPIRIT swerved away, their valiant gamble had not paid off; we'd left them no room to get past.
As we crossed the finishing line, lead weights dropped from our shoulders and we spontaneously yelled, screamed and leapt with joy and relief. We'd done it. 6518 Nm later, we'd arrived in the 'Windy City', 30 minutes behind Spirit of Sark and 2mins30secs before BG SPIRIT.
It was an exhilarating feeling. We watched the crowds of green t-shirts on the docks cheer and shout congratulations, an amazing welcome from supporters who'd been up all night to watch the drama. Even now, a day and half later, as I write this last log I feel the emotion of the moment well up inside me. I will never, never forget this day.
So, what now. After docking, gorging on some REAL food and a beer (just 1, honest!), we are coming to terms with our achievement. We are immensely proud. A team of amateur sailors, who 12 months ago barely knew each other, sailed safely, happily and fast (almost fastest!) along the most infamous stretch of water on our planet. We have achieved a lot, relationships forged, confidence strengthened. And the best thing, there are 5 more legs to go!!!!
Thanks to all our family, friends and supporters - you have been with us on this journey and your support has egged us on, you are our 19th crewmember.
Giles Mackey
Monday, January 3, 2005
Leg 2 Day 36 : 42' 02S 176' 47E
Just for today, I will give John a break and fill in as the boat scribe. My job on the boat is bowman; I am one of the grunts that ends up doing the brunt of the heavy work on the foredeck, a bit like the postmen: 'come rain or shine'. John - himself on the foredeck team although on the opposite
watch - did a sterling job to describe how relentlessness the job is; personally I see it like a battle, a fight, often even a brawl. Changing sails in itself is not a big deal, the problem is the cold, the waves, the water that washes over you, the narrow space we wedge ourselves in wrestling down furiously-flagging sails, often in the dark and rarely with time to spare.
All the training that we underwent over the last four years was largely to render these operations as safe and as fast as possible, but we are human beings, the fear to some degree is always there, but so is the adrenaline, the camaraderie of being surrounded by people, who not too long ago were strangers and now literally look after your life. The foredeck is a bit like a sprint into a ring, where you are going to fight an intense and hard fight, whilst at the other end of the boat the helms are more like marathon runners, for hour upon hour keeping the boat on course, face on to the wind
and the cold.
Now a mere 100 miles from the coast of New Zealand, we all have a sense of pride in the job done. Whatever these last few hours will bring, we now trust each other and rely on each other's support and care; it is a very warm feeling. I personally had a hard first two weeks, as I was plagued by a
terrible cold coming out of B.A., followed by a pulled muscle in my back which left me doing mother for a couple of days. In very rough weather that meant that I was also hit by acute seasickness. I felt useless and it was horrible to be in my bunk hearing the shouts and noises of hard-fought
watches and not being able to help. I have a memory of those first encounters with the Southern Ocean of a particular sail change, when I was stuck at the back of the boat with my back in pain, while my team-mates where taking down the no. 2 Yankee in strong winds, they were having problems and they were struggling, being washed down time and time again. I had tears in my eyes, it was years since last time I cried. Not able to stand it anymore I was on my feet before even I realized what I was doing and I ran forward
screaming at the top of my lungs, thinking about it now, it makes me smile as it must have been quite funny to see this big Italian guy charging in the waves, hunched down and yelling.at last the sail came down, my team mates thanked me and called me names for the sake of it and I instantly felt better. I was suddenly having fun.
Last night in the middle of a dark and moonless night we where suddenly surrounded by about 20 or 30 dolphins, which in the blackness of the water left behind trails of fluorescence, giving the impression that we where bombarded by torpedoes, this and other amazing things we saw are what a lot of us will remember for the rest of our lives. A lot of us, however, will also remember what it means to be in the most miserable state and yet finding within ourselves the strength to carry on.
Christian Talpo
This will be the last log in my slot as we hope to be in Wellington very soon. After a day of calm we are now fighting 20-30 knot winds and they are set to rise throughout the day. The Ocean is not going to let us off with a sedate entry into New Zealand indeed we may get the strongest winds of the leg. Alas, no rest for Christian, the foredeck team or the rest of the crew. And so, it just leaves me to thank all the website visitors for their support and hope you stay tuned for the next leg - Wellington to Sydney.
John Bass
Christian Talpo & John Bass
Sunday, January 2, 2005
Leg 2 Day 35 : 34 59 S 179 23 E
There are two ways to look at the last 24-hour run. We can either free the inner child and stamp our feet whilst beating furiously on the floor with our fists in frustration or look on the positive side and celebrate our achievements thus far.
There is plenty to justify the terrible-twos option. All's fair in love and war supposedly, but it was more than a little demoralising to sail into a big wind hole last night and park up, whilst Spirit of Sark slipped away from us once again. Spirits were high before yesterday's wind died; our hard work was paying off and our old adversaries were less than ten miles distant. Second place began to seem a distinct possibility. But one hour of steadily-dying wind gave way to another and the sea eventually took on the sickening slick of a windless mirror. A jagged but complete circle appeared crazily on the screen in front of us, depicting the lunatic track of the boat as we drifted backwards in zero wind. Our hopes became pinned on the possibility that
Spirit of Sark had suffered a similar and, more importantly, slightly worse fate than us. The converse turned out to be true and this morning's scheds said it all - Spirit of Sark were pretty much back where they had been before our mammoth efforts to catch them began several days ago - nearly 20 miles ahead. We are still 249 miles away though. a random ace could yet fall into our hands.
maybe.
At the end of the day though, there is not much you can do about wind holes, and something of a celebration is probably more apt. There is much to be pretty pleased about. Our position is now 179 East and the salts amongst you will know that this must be making us feel pretty pleased with ourselves; just a few hours ago we crossed the meridian and are now, therefore, semi-circumnavigators! We have come half way around the world, are still all intact and in fine fettle, are all still firm friends and look likely to celebrate the distance with our first podium place - not bad going considering the random bunch that turned up at our first team-build back in February 2004! This, I think, is testament to a very determined group of people with an indomitable spirit and a common set of values which we took our time on setting down. At our current speed - a steaming 11 knots - we will arrive about this time tomorrow, and the New Year's drink is going to taste oh so sweet. Whatever the result we cannot help but feel very proud. and not a little relieved that this test of endurance is almost at an end.
Naomi Cudmore
Saturday, January 1, 2005
Leg 2 Day 34 : 45o38S 178o16W
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
We celebrated the New Year just off of the Chatham Islands some 400 miles from New Zealand today having crossed the Southern Ocean via Cape Horn to get here. As unique locations go, this one ranks pretty high. We blew our quota of Champagne on celebrating Laura's engagement so it was an alcohol free evening but, on the plus side we did have a hangover-free New Year's day (The first I can remember since my teens). We have been shrouded in fog for most of the day but have been screaming along at over ten knots and gradually eating into the miles between us and Spirit of Sark and BG SPIRIT (It has been a day where spirits of all kinds have been on our minds!).
However as I came to write this log the wind has died and we are wallowing around looking for some boat speed, any boat speed. The wind is expected to come back soon and the Genoa is up and ready to catch that first gust and send us on our way again. Good news seeing as the MaxSea navigation software we use is currently saying that at this speed and bearing we will be in Wellington in 40 days! Hopefully BG SPIRIT and Spirit of Sark are experiencing the same light winds and our relative distances shouldn't change but we are awaiting the latest positions with the usual keenness.
Positions 1 and 2 are within our reach but we are need to continue to do what we've been doing while trying to glean every fraction of a knot out of BP Explorer. If we can do the right thing tactically and maybe if lady luck is on our side there is no reason why we can't improve on third place and, surprise, surprise that's what has appeared top of the list of the crew's new year's resolutions.
Colin and Jane would like to wish everyone a 'Guid New Year' and hope that all the folks back in Scotland had a great Hogmanay. Jane is especially looking forward to a tall dark stranger 'first footing' BP Explorer in Wellington in true Scottish style. I would like to wish everyone on behalf
of the crew of BP Explorer a happy and prosperous new year. This year if you have a dream, follow it, if you've ever wanted to do something totally different don't put it off. Live life to the full and fill every unforgiving minute with 60 seconds worth of distance run - I can certainly recommend it.
John Bass
Friday, December 31, 2004
Leg 2 Day 33 : 46' 51S 173' 2W
As I write this log wedged in next to the radar panel at the chart table, it's late Thursday night local time on 30th December in an hours time it will be Friday 31st December, and a couple of hours after that it will be Saturday 1st January 2005. Nobody is too confused yet?
I feel cheated of the traditional homemade outfit I would certainly have worn for the Heroes and Villains night in my local (Happy New Year's Eve to all at The Notley Arms! And from everyone onboard to all friends and family at home), for as far as we can make out the crew of BP Explorer lose the right to link arms and sing very badly in unison due to an untimely crossing of the International Date Line.
It's the New Year's Eve that we will never have. Hopefully we will tag a suitable celebration on the end of our belated Christmas lunch in Wellington and mark the occasion in style, but for now there is a veritable mountain of real cheese hidden under the saloon seats and we will feast on this tomorrow.
Admittedly, with 651 miles to go and a Waypoint (or Wellington and Wine) Closing Velocity of 8.3 knots, all treats are rapidly losing their trading value; the Double Decker once worth at least two cereal bars will soon just be a squashy nothing in the bottom of our Curver boxes.
Levels of treat exchange and consumption have therefore reached an all-time high in the last few days. The excitement beyond racing does not end there; our wildlife sitings have included not only some new large brown birds (as yet unidentified), a jellyfish on deck and two whales off the port beam, but also a floating rubber glove to starboard - a sure sign of approaching civilisation. It is tantalisingly close.
Currently, it looks like we will arrive on Monday 3rd January (which will be Sunday 2nd in the UK). As the yachts to the south of us tack furiously, trying get north, we have thanked
our lucky stars that we headed north early; the third-place position which we now enjoy seems relatively safe for now, but we certainly have a fight on our hands to catch Spirit of Sark we have made mile on them for the last three or four consecutive sets of scheds, and they are now seeming to hold their distance from us at ten miles.
BG, SPIRIT meanwhile have been advantaged by being even more to the north, are 21 miles in front of us, and just over ten ahead of Spirt of Sark. We take our battle one step at a time and are simply doing what we always agreed upon - changing nothing at the last minute but maximising our best efforts to sail consistently as fast as we can.
The goals which we set ourselves for Leg 2 are up on the galley wall and read 'Top Three out of the River Plate, Top Five Around Cape Horn and Top Three into Wellington.'
We achieved the first two and to add a third tick to the list would be fantastic. Not-so-secretly, however, we are all hoping for one better.
Naomi Cudmore
Thursday, December 30, 2004
Leg 2 Day 32 : 46 48 S 169 01 W
Alas, no 'peaches and cream' sunsets today. A curtain fell on the myriad of colour that painted the heavens and, as the winds rose and the clouds joined to hide the blue and blanket sparkle-topped waves we were, once more,
shrouded in ever so grey.
BP Explorer heeled as her sails filled, lifted and surged through the waves. Gripping tightly at her reigns her occupants braced themselves for the inevitable 'bumpy ride' and contemplated the error of not taking their showers yesterday.
Elsewhere, BG Spirit are cashing in some of their northerly advantage chips and have sailed faster than us today to take second position pushing us back to third. We expect them to make more of their good tactical decision and gain further miles over the next couple of days.
Samsung have changed course to intercept with Imagine It. Done. and pass across urgent medical supplies. We can't tell at the moment the affect it will have on our final position after any compensation is taken into consideration, however the important thing is that they are there to assist as will BP Explorer if required and as Imagine It Done speed towards the Chatham Islands, some 360 miles from our current position, BP Explorer will be the next in line should further assistance be required.
Our immediate target is Spirit of Sark and we are doing everything we can to eat away at their lead over us. We expect to have northerly winds for the next 36 hours and only time will tell what we will have to do to improve our position when the leaders converge to pass the Chatham Islands themselves.
In approximately 24 hours we will pass the International Date Line and as Andrew Smith put it "this time tomorrow it will be the day after tomorrow." New Year's Eve is safe for now though I thought it would have been nice when asked what we did for new year 2004-5 the answer would be 'we missed it
because it wasn't there' - stories of heroics on the foredeck and fighting Southern Ocean waves would invariably follow.
As stories of injuries and medical problems make their way into the logs we would just like to reassure our friends and families that we are all safe and well. At no point will we
ever sacrifice safety or the well being of the crew for race position or the yacht and we are also looking after ourselves nutritionally and mentally. Safe and happy are first in the list for very good reason - faster is the bonus.
John Bass
Wednesday, December 29, 2004
Leg 2 Day 31 : 47o36S 164o45W
As a peaches-and-cream sunset gave way to a canopy of stars this evening, it seemed to us that we had finally made inroads into a more hospitable atmosphere, leaving behind us the dark desert that is the Southern Ocean.
The fearless winds that blow day and night, the perpetual bulleting rain, and a never-ending cloak of darkness have been lifted to reveal again a brilliant sky, lit up tonight over the helmsman's right shoulder by the brightest star in the entire sky, the southern hemisphere's Sirius, 8.6 light years away. The beautiful night seems so at odds with the scenes of devastation in Indonesia which, even out here, we have heard about but can only imagine; and which certainly make the small war we wage seem in many ways insignificant. It is very easy to forget things on a global scale, encapsulated as we are in our own minutely-focussed bubble, and perhaps it is worth keeping this in the back of our minds as we approach the finish and the last battle at the front of the fleet intensifies. Today we saw 'distance to waypoint' flick to below 1,000 miles on our screens and let out a quiet breath of relief; it has been a long, hard slog.
Last night saw BG SPIRIT and Samsung heading away from the pack to the north on a flyer to position themselves for the forecast northerly winds; due to a medical incident on Imagine It. Done. (to whom we send our best wishes for a speedy recovery) we experienced a communications embargo for some time and did not, as a result, receive a position report on the rest of the fleet.
With an inkling of BG SPIRIT and Samsung's tactics, but with no confirmation to aid our own decision-making, we played with the hand we were dealt and sailed as fast as we could to cover Spirit of Sark - whose masthead light could be seen just a couple of miles away on the starboard bow. As day dawned and we were enlightened by the scheds, it became clear that our adversaries had made a bold move which, for BG SPIRIT at least, has paid off - around 70 miles north of us, they have now made up considerable ground, and Samsung, around 35 miles north, are also gaining, although somewhat more slowly. As all this was going on, Spirit of Sark remained in sight for the early part of the morning, until the last remnants of a dying breeze lifted their tail and scooped them away from us over the glittering horizon. Agonisingly we watched as they disappeared from view and left us wallowing in light airs. The last position reports tell us that they are now 13.3 miles away - the slings and arrows indeed!
Naomi Cudmore
Tuesday, December 28, 2004
Leg 2 Day 30 : 48' 49S 161' 36W
As the Southern Ocean becomes the South Pacific the difference in sailing conditions couldn't be more marked. The suntan cream is out again and the bitter cold has been replaced with a bracing chill. It's a chance to remove at least one layer and as there is little water over the decks the foulies, for the most part, can stay hung up in the locker. Flatter seas and nearly no heeling make the jobs below decks more comfortable and it's a chance to give BP Explorer a thorough clean and going over. Today we gave the floors a good scrub and used old toothbrushes to get into every corner. With about 1000 miles to go and the finish counted in days rather than weeks the mood amongst the crew is positive and focused. It's incredible that after so many miles the fleet are so close. As we are almost neck and neck with Spirit of Sark, this time with them just in front of us, we are reminded that this leg could see leading final positions separated by minutes rather than hours. Tricky weather and high-pressure systems to negotiate makes for constant tweaking and analysis of tactics and routing and the now well practiced circle of spinnaker hoists, peels and packs dominate the on watch duties. We know we can sail BP Explorer fast and maybe faster and the key is to focus even more and try and grab and increase miles between us and the rest of the fleet. We desperately want to be first into Wellington and we know we are capable of doing so. The last thing we want to do is relax now and regret not trying harder when we get into port so every day of the last week will be as important at the first and last days of the race. The rest is in the laps of the Gods.
John Bass
Monday, December 27, 2004
leg 2 Day 29 : 50 deg 18 S 157 deg 29 W
Sail starts Boxing Day! As I write this we have put exactly 5,136 miles behind us since Buenos Aires; there are 1,305.7 miles to go to the next waypoint (which happens to be a bar in Wellington) and the racing is so close that it might as well be the start, not the last week, of Leg 2.
Throughout the previous watch, Spirit of Sark's 1.5 race spinnaker could be seen fluttering and straining neck and neck with our own as they flew along on the opposite gybe - sailing towards us, visible through the murk on the port beam. According to the scheds they are just 1.3 miles away - and the light-winds lottery is back. We have enjoyed this return to kiting conditions, but whilst we made not inconsiderable gains on both VAIO and Spirit of Sark during the afternoon, Samsung, BG SPIRIT and Barclays Adventurer caught up some miles on us at the same time.
One mistake now and we could just as easily end in eighth position as on the podium; nerve-wracking times indeed! To dream of sailing our beautiful yacht over land rather than sea has been a common theme to several crew members' dreams aboard BP Explorer from time to time since before Portsmouth and, over our lamb googah at dinner, we connected this phenomenon with times of particular tension.
Last night, amidst the familiar rustling sound of a spinnaker being packed inches from our sleeping bodies, Chris dreamt we were sailing down a narrow alleyway, the sides of which crowded in on us and tore our spinnaker pole to pieces. It doesn't take a genius to analyse that one. It would certainly have been nice to have begun our last week with a comfortable position on which to build, but as we fly towards another year and the opposite side of the world it remains all to play for.
For the time being we have positioned ourselves well in relation to the high-pressure cell which currently dominates the fleet's routing decisions; we just have to hope that the situation stays this way.
Naomi Cudmore
Sunday, December 26, 2004
Leg 2 Day 28 : 51 24S 152 53W
Christmas day in the Southern Ocean started early today and calls to family and loved ones started at midnight - 0900GMT. There was a definite party feel as we each wished each other Merry Christmas and took it in turns to call home.
Later at 11am local time a core crew was left on deck while the rest huddled around the VHF to take part in a Christmas day chat show. Each yacht took it in turns to act out a scene from an alternative nativity play - alternative being the important word here.
Lunch was a triumph and ordinary freeze dried chicken was transformed with the addition of some gravy, stuffing and a dollop of cranberry jelly. The real treat though was a Christmas pudding (Thanks Naomi's mum) with custard. David also announced that the girls could take showers if they wanted despite concerns over the operation of our water maker which, for now, seems to be working ok.
After lunch we exchanged secret Santa gifts, which we'd each brought in Buenos Aires and a few of the crew opened gifts that they had been given at the start of the race.
Meanwhile we were still racing the boat. We were convinced that yachts like Spirit of Sark and BG SPIRIT would use the possible loss of racing focus to gain some miles so we made sure that both Happy and Faster were satisfied today.
The latest positions showed that we have gained 2 miles on Spirit of Sark in the last 24 hours and are holding off the rest of the fleet too. Dinner provided more treats in the form of two delicious Christmas cakes (thanks go to Sheila, David's mum and Olly's mum) and a shot of single malt to send us happily to our bunks at the end of the watch.
The weather has been kind today and despite warnings of rough weather it has been comfortable sailing and as I write this we are speeding along at 11 knots. However, a high-pressure system is ahead of us and with the fleet being so close we can't afford to make any mistakes and get stuck in light winds. As a few of us sat on the rail smoking some cigars, courtesy of Major this afternoon, we reflected on the last few weeks and what lies ahead. We all agreed that this is certainly a challenge with highs and lows but today will certainly be one of the highs.
On days like today we remember why we wanted to do this in the first place. A Merry Christmas indeed.
John Bass
Saturday, December 25, 2004
Leg 2 Day 27 : 51 59S 148 23W
Happy Christmas Everyone! Thanks for all the emails and we hope that you enjoyed our photo and video!
Christmas Eve has been totally stress-free in the last-minute present-buying department, and there have been no mammoth vegetable-preparation scenes whilst The Great Escape is being shown on the telly for the zillionth year
in a row, but we have had our fair share of nail biting here in the grey wilderness at the bottom of the world. Whilst consuming mountains of perfectly-whipped butterscotch Angel Delight (thanks John Stewart), we have been peering over the shoulders of our sage navigators Stephen and Andrew as each new set of scheds come in. At the chart table, which is decked in green tinsel, the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune that come hand in hand with ocean racing are writ large on the left-hand computer. The coin
has most definitely had two sides of late - on the up side we have made gains ever so slowly but surely on Spirit of Sark, and have also managed by the skin of our teeth to keep BG SPIRIT and VAIO at bay, but over the horizon, apparently fuelled by their own personal Southern-Ocean jet pack, have come Samsung - storming their way into third and hot on our heels. At one stage just six miles behind us, they have now, thankfully, slipped back to nine. I for one am used to having a half-day on Christmas Eve but none of us can manage that luxury this year - we are all out to maintain the pressure and keep pushing. One loss of concentration and the position is gone, in the blink of an eye. It is definitely a case of eyes forward! Not so long ago, Spirit of Sark's wake was over 40 miles long; now they are just nine miles away. I think that for everyone on board BP Explorer one of the best Christmas presents we could wish for this year would be to glide into first place. If Father Christmas does not deliver this one, it will not be for want of trying!
Lots of love to everyone this Christmas.
PS. To all the crews and especially the crew of Stelmar, who we all admire, we wish you a merry Christmas and look forward to celebrating it big style in Wellington.
Naomi Cudmore
Friday, December 24, 2004
Leg 2 Day 26 51 15S 144 28W:
It's Christmas Eve and below it is quiet but for the rumble of the watermaker and the purr of the generator. The off watch lay cosy in their bunks dreaming, perhaps as children, of Christmas mornings past. Bags of fruit, the fevered tearing of paper to reveal eagerly awaited toys and the comfort of being surrounded by the people they love. Above, the wind howls around the hoods of the huddled at the rail as water cascades around their feet. They think about the next hour, or is it two, until the end of their watch and sleep. The Southern Ocean has no public holidays and neither does this race but as Christmasses go this one will be special in so many ways. We will be sharing it with new friends in the crew and one of the World's most demanding environments. In our hearts we will be sharing it with the ones we love at home.
To Mum, Stephen, Emily, Oliver and Isabelle, to Alison and my dearest friends whom I love and miss so so much, to all the school children in Royston who have been following my progress and the others who have supported me and the team including Claire, Ruth and the people at BP and Cathy and the staff at UK - I wish you all a very merry Christmas and a happy new year,
Love John Bass x
Holger Bindel :- Ich wuensche allen ein Frohes Weihnachtsfest und ein gesundes Neues Jahr. Ein besonders schoenes Fest wuensche ich meiner Familie und meinem Patenkind Noah und seine Familie.
Laura Alexander :- Merry Christmas to my family in the UK, Australia and Canada from the Southern Ocean. PS Mum can you save me some of your Xmas pudding please. Love Laura xxx
Colin Barber :- Wishing my wife Hazel, Family and Friends in Inverness, Torphins, Milngavie, Strathblane and St Cyrus a fantastic time this Christmas. Looking forward to seeing you all in the New Year. All my Love from the "bottom of the World". Colin xx
Stephen Allberry :- Happy Christmas to all friends in Hampshire, Hackney and Sussex. I wish you were here!
Goldie Raley :- To my family and friends. Seasons Greetings from the Southern Ocean! Have a Merry Christmas and a VERY Happy 2005. LOADS of love to you all - especially those 'rascals' on the farm. Golds x x x x
Rob Phillips:- To Iris, my family and my friends I wish you a merry Christmas and a happy new year.
Oliver Browett :- To all of my family and friends who have been following my progress; hope you all enjoy a merry Christmas and a happy new year. I will miss the usual festive season celebrations but I'm sure Christmas at the bottom of the world is one to remember.
And not forgetting - David Melville
Beautiful girl and little boy, I love you. Family and friends all my best times are with you, lots of love to you all. Hello to this year's new borns what a difference you make!
All the crew
Thursday, December 23, 2004
Leg 2 Day 26 : 51 43S 139 16W
We hope that readers will not mind us devoting most of today's log to personal messages from our watch to those back home. Currently battling through yet another F8-9, we still lie in second place, but with very little distance between ourselves and VAIO and BG SPIRIT. Second is hardly something which we can take for granted; every mile gained is hard won, every mile lost a bitter pill to take.
Incredibly, after over 4,000 miles of racing, the first nine yachts are within 45 miles of each other - the competition is stiffer than a treble shot of neat Gordons! And yet loved ones are at the forefront of our minds as Christmas fast approaches. This one is for them.
[AS] Happy Christmas to everyone at home, especially Sarah, Rachel & Peter and all the Smith clan staying in Lytham. Looking forward to seeing you in New Zealand soon. Lots of love from Andrew XXX.
[CT] Alla mia famiglia: buon natale e vi voglio bene, I love you s.c.l.w. this is the last Christmas without you! See you in kiwiland. FF and Flash: keep a cold one ready for next month . Vabene people I send you all my love!
[RW] Happy Christmas to Mum, Dad, Julie, Sarah, Andy, Sue, Phoebe, Cameron, Chris, Art, Des, plus everyone in the Thatched in Epping and a tickle for Harry. A special thankyou and Happy Christmas to my brother Graham without who's help and support I wouldn't be here. A big wave to you all from the other side of the world, probably cold and wet but happy. This is truly rock and roll.
[NC] Haaaappy Christmas! to M&N, W&M&M(woof) and T&J at LNQ (Heaven) and Jilly&Hannah up the hill I MISS YOU ALL! Festive love&hugs&pinksparklythings to Jo, James, Helen, Neet, Sarah, Dylan, both Carols, Liz, Jon, Dunstan,
Paul, Barbara & family, Sandy, Rich, Sarah, Lauren, Elly, Wills R & B, Dot, Kal, Devon Ben, Foxy, Georgie, Andy, Lucy, Oliver, The Nettlecombe Clan, Angela, Mark, Keith, Bernie, Glen, Pat, Angie, Charlie, Beth, Ellen, Jasmine (and my cosy fireplace), all the Hampshire crew, Ed, Sam, D&S, John, Teresa, Roger, Maureen, Duncs & Lesley, Neil, Halsgrove and everyone at The Notley Arms and any other West Somerseters left off the list! Lots and lots of love
from Naomi xxxxx
[GM] Happy Christmas to all my family and friends. Thanks for all your support and good wishes. I wish you a cosy, warm Christmas by the fire and an appetising Southern Ocean yuletide log (much better than the Queen's speech!). I will look forward to some mulled wine and mistletoe in NZ! love
G.
[JS] Warm wishes to all my friends who have been a source of inspiration and support over the last few years. Thanks to the Tullamore crew for listening to all the sailing talk. Have a great Xmas to you all. Special greetings to all my co-workers at Applied Materials, my family in Dublin and friends around the world. Sweetie I miss you dearly and hope that this will be the last xmas apart, lots of love John
[DP] Happy Christmas to Mum, Dad, Till, Liz, Jon, Lisa, Bev, Sarah, Laura, Marylin, Dodge, Sue, Andy & Bev and everyone at the SSSC... Cop
[JC] Merry Christmas to the best mum in the world, to my fab big sister and the McKerracher clan and to Lynda, a better pal I couldn't ask for. Have a great Christmas everyone at Scottish Enterprise, Tighnabruaich Primary School and all of the other friends that have supported me in my 'Challenge'
Miss you all heaps.
[MM] Major would like to wish a very happy and peaceful Christmas and a wonderful new year to his family including his children Rochelle, Melissa, Cass and Carlene also Jimi, Cherry and Ben. His mum and his brothers and sisters Joe, Graham, Surinder, Kalinder and Nini. All the nephews and nieces
including Michael, David Lee and Levina. All friends including Bob, Vicky and family, John and Karen, Steve and Pam, Clare and Graham, Ken and Sue, and Bal who all came to see him off at Portsmouth. Also best wishes to Sudir who came to see him off at BA. Mick and Mary, to all the regulars at the
Seven Bar in Shifnal and everybody at the Bell in Harborne, plus everyone who knows me.
The Crew
Wednesday, December 22, 2004
Leg 2 Day 25 : 52 31S 134 33W
Well in the week before xmas I thought it might be appropriate to hear a word from the skipper on progress to date. Our objectives are to be safe, happy and faster.
Safe:
John and Naomi have vividly described the conditions in which the crew have been working in. Nearly always cold, damp, arduous and sometimes dangerous. Our stated objective onboard is to ''be free from the unacceptable risk of harm''. We are trying to create an environment onboard where the crew can cross an ocean and not be injured - and have been assisted in this by Paul Everest a Safety Manager with BP.
Safety is a daily topic, formally discussed and changes continually made to our working practices. So far, on this our most risky passage, we have had only had two very minor injuries onboard - a bashed thumb and a pulled muscle in the back. You might get worse working in your back garden at the weekend!
All of the crew are committed to protecting each other and this might prove to be the most enduring achievement of the trip.
Happy:
We also discuss the morale onboard the boat on a daily basis. Another stated objective is that nobody should be unhappy during their time onboard the yacht. This is sometimes a challenging objective. Perhaps the most difficult aspect of racing a yacht is that you never have a day off.
Three times a day you must climb on deck and face a cold and biting wind that is rarely stable for more than an hour or so. There is an endless round of sail changes that require a high degree of effort and no respite until Wellington. The Southern Ocean is a bleak place with less wildlife than you might imagine - there is a continual greyness that cloaks the ocean and does little to lift the spirits.
But onboard the yacht laughter swirls around. The crew sit huddled together sniggering over their misfortunes. Where someone does become down, this is spotted and the story drawn out where possible. At the end of each watch issues must be communicated, resolved and forgotten.
Happiness is not left to chance. Each crewmember has an A4 laminate of people and places that they love. What I have noticed is that these are more often on hand than in the sunny Atlantic. People show each other their montages and while the faces are different, the images are the same.
Families pressed up around each other smiling at the camera. Friends crowd in holding drinks and smiling mischievously, pets look up loyally. Humans are such social animals, living in such close quarters down here does not seem oppressive, it's almost as if the harsh conditions require it.
Particularly at this emotional time of year I have been struck by the genuine warmth and affection that exists between the crewmembers of BP Explorer and their love for their friends and family at home.
Faster:
We have crossed 4000m of ocean and 50m separates 1st and 9th place. Those of you who don't regularly follow ocean racing might not realise, but this is extremely close and competitive racing. We are lying in second place at the moment, but our closest rival is only 1 mile behind and may well be 1 mile in front by the time this email reaches you.
BP Explorer is continually at the forefront of the fleet and this has taken an exceptional amount of effort from the crew. Sail changes are relentless and unless executed at speed lead to small reductions in speed which see you slowly fall back.
Everybody onboard must continually battle the wind and waves if we are not to be immediately overhauled by our competitors. In this the crew have been magnificent, their level of motivation and dedication to sailing the yacht is an inspiration. Months ago they arrived from disparate occupations and now labour together towards a single objective - the relentless pursuit of boat speed, where success is measured in a 1% advantage over your rivals.
As their skipper I am full of admiration for their energy, bravery, and cheerfulness.
So this xmas don't feel sorry for the crew of BP Explorer, they will soon be home to sit around fires and do the rounds of xmas parties. But this year they will experience something truly unique. The close comradeship that comes from working in a team for a worthwhile objective. They will miss the love of their families, but will be supported by the warmth and affection that exists onboard the boat. They will be safe, happy and faster.
David Melville
Tuesday, December 21, 2004
Leg 2 Day 24 : 52 29S 129 56W
The phrase 'going away for Christmas this year' does little justice to our adventure right now - there is the romantic mini-break to escape the in-laws and then there is the extreme extended break for 18 - romantic, but in an entirely different way. Two days ago BP Explorer was as far from land as you can get on the planet. Picture the biggest bit of ocean on your spinning globe (the one that you are all lovingly sticking pins into Blue-Peter style) and that will be us! 'Remote' seems a very small word to describe just how isolated we are. I am sure that each and every crew member visualises our track across this vast blue in different ways; we all see the numbers up on screen every day - latitude, longitude, nautical miles to New Zealand (currently 2,350), sea depth (3,812 metres) and so on - but there is something surreal about the whole experience, something that the facts and figures do not convey and which is deeply personal although shared in such a confined space. Admittedly, there are times when it is easy for us all to forget that we are in the Southern Ocean - today, for example, we have had light and fickle winds, have flown our spinnakers and are right now slipping silently through the iron-grey sea with barely a whisper of wind in our genoa. And the New Zealand forecast predicts a sedate 15 knots from the north-west on Christmas Eve - perfect decorating weather after the gales on their way for Wednesday and Thursday. But then, apart from the bashings from wind and waves which come with guaranteed regularity, we do get a reminder that we have indeed truly 'gone away' for Christmas - the same New Zealand forecasters today predicted 15 large icebergs sighted at 52o36S - further north than us, although far out to the west, and in the same breath NZ informed us of an 'Area temporarily dangerous to navigation from falling spacecraft from 22nd December 2230 UTC to 23rd December 0030.' Again, we are even further south of this sea area which has presumably been chosen as a suitable place to receive space debris due to its great distance from anywhere.
Yet for all our isolation we do not feel alone. The boat is a hive of activity round the clock and even when the wind dies, the deck seems to be swept by gales of laughter as we get into the Christmas mood. The racing is more intense than ever. Just to our right we can see the masthead light of BG (according to the last scheds we had overtaken them after our waypoint disappointment), we are trying to creep up on Spirit of Sark unnoticed and we are battling to increase our new lead on VAIO, although this is not helped by the wind hole we now find ourselves in (as we are sandwiched between two low-pressure systems). Shops and last-minute Brussels sprouts peeling sessions we can live without for one year, but if there is one thing we would all love for Christmas, it is a crack at clean air ahead and first position!
Naomi Cudmore
Monday, December 20, 2004
Leg 2 Day 23 : 52 36S 125 44W
So, here we are again, after weeks of bashing through the Southern Ocean we are once again becalmed. The same sea that once rose and thundered is now flat but for the occasional ripple. The horizon almost merges with the water creating an eerie feeling of floating in space. Sails, which only a few days ago pulled on their sheets like dogs pulling their owners through the park, now flap wistfully like the silk negligee on the girl next door's washing line. Below decks it is quiet except for the occasional gurgle of water around the hull and we can tell we're not moving at all. There are three noughts on the boat speed display and the wind direction indicator spins around 360 degrees and back again.
Frustrating is a word used before in these logs and here it is again. The fleet positions become redundant, as we know they are probably changing significantly by the hour. All we can hope for is that the others are suffering the same. As it happens it would appear that Spirit of Sark are stuck too, however, BG SPIRIT further south are suffering less. It is a chance to pump water from the bilges that has eluded us when we've been heeled over and those that didn't get their showers before can now do so in comfort. The rest is welcomed but at the unacceptable cost that every hour we are still means an hour later getting into Wellington. That's it! That's been our day, somewhat different from most years where I'd be scurrying around the shops looking for Christmas presents or recovering from an over enthusiastic drinking session. Even though we've be dragged through it over the last few weeks, at this moment, I wouldn't exchange being right here, right now for how I've spent the week before Christmas in any previous year. I may well change my mind when it blows 30 knots again but for the time being - Now's the season to be jolly tra ah la la la, la la la la.
John Bass
Sunday, December 19, 2004
Leg 2 Day 22 : 52' 27S 123' 0W
We were expecting some sort of barge anchored at the mythical Waypoint Alpha, laden with cold beers, a huge steak and champagne, but were sadly disappointed this morning when we rounded the waypoint watched by a couple of indifferent seabirds and surrounded by a light, cold drizzle in the middle, literally, of nowhere. Tensions on deck ran high after learning of BG SPIRIT's positioning which had enabled them to overtake us, putting us back to fourth position, and everyone is noticeably relieved that New Zealand now seems a tangible destination, at just over a fortnight's distance. When we all first signed up for the Global Challenge - some of us more than four years ago, others more recently - we read all the blurb and watched footage from the previous race. Those images of foredeck crews taking a pasting through stormy sail-changes, waist deep in icy water and being bashed around like rag dolls were not, as it turns out, at all exaggerated - nor the portrayal of the elation felt by each crew at the end of a leg. What did not come through in those early stages, however, were the many other ways in which the Southern Ocean legs are such a test of endurance. It is not so much the individual storms, but the endless progression of them, with an unrelenting theme of cold and wet running through it all. Even on the occasional watch where there are no sail changes to be made, simply keeping warm on deck for any length of time is pretty tiring, and staggering around down below whilst heeled over in six or seven layers of clothing sometimes gets a bit waring!
We soldier on, though, still currently in fourth, but according to the most recent scheds having made up a little ground on BG SPIRIT since this morning who are three miles away, and continuing to pursue VAIO, who are five-and-a-half miles in front. < of>remain a longer-term goal but we have more than a couple of thousand miles to try to turn this around!
Naomi Cudmore
Saturday, December 18, 2004
Leg 2 Day 21 : 51.55 S 119.44 W
In just a few short hours we will be rounding Waypoint Alpha (WA), in all likelihood in fourth position. This is one less than we would have anticipated until the most recent scheds came in just minutes ago, when we were disappointed to learn that BG SPIRIT (on whom we had, day by day, built up a useful lead of 15 miles or so) have positioned themselves cleverly and overhauled us. Until we have rounded the waypoint, however, it will be difficult to tell exactly how the distances between the leading pack pan out - VAIO, who are now less than five miles away, could conceivably also be overtaken by BG SPIRIT before WA. Bearing in mind the overall positions and points thus far (VAIO came 2nd on Leg 1, whilst BG SPIRIT lie equal with us), we are obviously keen to beat both of these boats. The Southern Ocean is a relentlessly tiring place and everyone is ready for a bath and a long, long snooze in a normal bed, but it has never been so important to dig deep and focus as it is now in order for us to do well on this second part of the leg. Everything is still to play for.
From the waypoint we estimate that it should take around 16 days to reach Wellington. Life on board remains a daily contrast - between the constant fluctuations and changes in the sea and sky above decks, and the routines at the bottom of the companionway steps. Here it can seem rather like Groundhog Day; just over a fortnight to go means 40 more sleeps, 40 more abrupt awakenings and stumblings into our yellow Michelin-man-style outfits, around 100 more cups of tea each, another 80 tiring sail changes, 1 more shower apiece (unless we get another one for Christmas!), and a lot more googah served up in our pale-blue dog bowls. Apart from the days when we are treated - as we were yesterday - to the culinary delights of Major's daal, which was out of this world at the start of the race but whose perfection has now reached a peak. Let's hope that it spurs us on to a podium position!
Naomi Cudmore
Friday, December 17, 2004
Leg 2 Day 20 : 52 37S 116 01W
For a few brief moments today a gap appeared in the icy grey sky and the sun appeared and shone. Spirits were lifted on deck and the cold dark Southern Ocean was transformed, as if moving from a black and white image to one in glorious Technicolor. We were reminded how beautiful the ocean can be and how majestic BP Explorer can look as she surfs the waves under full sail.
News came from below that we could have a shower if we wanted. Apparently the saloon cleared of the off watch as crew eager to wash after two and a half weeks at sea scurried to their Curver boxes for their towels and change of underwear. The winds had eased slightly and our angle of heel had become flatter which made for a less hazardous adventure in the heads/showers, however, by the time we came off watch the winds had built again and a simple operation a few moments earlier became a whole different story. As the yacht lifts and crashes over the waves you are essentially in a washing machine below. Some very careful bracing while also allowing for some suspension in the knees does allow the use the shower in rough conditions but it takes considerably longer. The really tricky bit is when you are all lathered up and a whole lot more slippery than normal. What would normally be a working method of wedging your butt on one wall while using a forearm on another is less effective as you slide a full 360 round the inside of the cubicle. You end up at a position gravity dictates until the next movement of the boat sends you spinning back again. Anyway we all survived and are now smelling fresh and clean and feeling a lot better for it. We are still in third place and wary that if we believe we can catch and overtake the leaders, which we do, then it would be just as easy for the rest of the fleet, a similar distance behind, to do the same to us. This makes for busy watches and a constant attention to trimming the yacht for optimum performance. As we pass Waypoint Alpha in the next 24 hours the crew know that we will soon be nearer to our destination than anywhere else, which is a huge relief after hearing of Team Stelmar having to turn back the way they came. It is also a stark reminder that we are now at least two weeks from anywhere!
John Bass
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