After Sunday's desperate search for wind which included Christian Talpo scaling our 85ft mast in search of any signs, finally at 5:40 the winds returned to our sails and we were off again, but not without cost. The light airs gave the rest of the fleet time to catch up and the position reports made disappointing reading. Spirit of Sark had crept up on us over night and loomed like an ominous shadow on the horizon. VAIO, Team SAIC and Samsung were out to the west and had benefited from favourable winds and had caught up and taken over the lead. BG SPIRIT and Barclays Adventurer had also gained.
The winds stayed with us all day Monday and each watch gave their total concentration to regain lost ground. Far from being beaten, our resolve increased and the desire to get the most out of BP Explorer rose to new levels. A healthy competition built up between watches where the old watch gave the new watch target speeds. As I write this I can hear the watch on deck whooping at beating our record. We are not down, our lead has been taken but it is early yet. Gambles on the part of the other yachts in the fleet have paid off but as every gambler should know, you don't always win and consistency is the key. We know we can get back the lead and confidence is high in fact we are enjoying the challenge, we don't want it too easy after all.
(Skipper) David has been rescued from patrolling the decks in bare feet by Major Mahli who has given him his flip-flops. I asked Major today what he was most looking forward to in Buenos Aires, he said a cold beer.
Tuesday, October 12, 2004
Sunday, October 10, 2004
Leg 1 Day 8 : 60 miles East of Madeira
In total contrast to the storms of Thursday and Friday we are now at the other end of the sailing spectrum. Light airs, dead calm by whatever name, it means unless we are totally focused on keeping the yacht moving we'll stop and that isn't racing. It's in these situations where brains take over from brawn and the physical challenge makes way to the mental challenge.
It doesn't mean we're sitting around waiting for wind though. We are hoisting and dropping spinnakers and headsails at a tiring pace and analysing every fraction of a knot difference. David has resorted to shouting into the skies demanding wind and has given the rest of the crew permission to pray to their gods. Whilst contemplating the next strategy David caught his deck shoe on the rail and moments later it dropped over the side and drifted majestically off into the distance. It was a lighter moment for Olly and myself, however, we were told that while this may be a funny incident to some people IT WAS NOT FUNNY AT ALL - AND THAT'S OFFICIAL. We waited until he had gone below before we cracked up. If you've noticed anything different in the nature of the log today it's because it is being written by one of the 'medieval males' onboard BP Explorer. We've given Naomi the week off from diligently recording every detail of our various odours so the fellas can have their say, so no beautiful sunsets and being scared this week I'm afraid.
Just for the record yesterday was shower day and all the blokes now smell fresh and clean and we've even washed our socks! We are all getting into the routine of the watches now and there are more meetings between the watches instead of just coming off and climbing into our bunks. Spirits are high which is good (we've been through a lot already).
We are going to need every bit of concentration and teamwork to get BP Explorer back sailing fast where we most like to be - up front.
It doesn't mean we're sitting around waiting for wind though. We are hoisting and dropping spinnakers and headsails at a tiring pace and analysing every fraction of a knot difference. David has resorted to shouting into the skies demanding wind and has given the rest of the crew permission to pray to their gods. Whilst contemplating the next strategy David caught his deck shoe on the rail and moments later it dropped over the side and drifted majestically off into the distance. It was a lighter moment for Olly and myself, however, we were told that while this may be a funny incident to some people IT WAS NOT FUNNY AT ALL - AND THAT'S OFFICIAL. We waited until he had gone below before we cracked up. If you've noticed anything different in the nature of the log today it's because it is being written by one of the 'medieval males' onboard BP Explorer. We've given Naomi the week off from diligently recording every detail of our various odours so the fellas can have their say, so no beautiful sunsets and being scared this week I'm afraid.
Just for the record yesterday was shower day and all the blokes now smell fresh and clean and we've even washed our socks! We are all getting into the routine of the watches now and there are more meetings between the watches instead of just coming off and climbing into our bunks. Spirits are high which is good (we've been through a lot already).
We are going to need every bit of concentration and teamwork to get BP Explorer back sailing fast where we most like to be - up front.
Friday, October 8, 2004
Leg 1 Day 6 :Off Portugal
The winds have now finally died down sufficiently for us to send a log detailing BP Explorer's adventures during the last 24 hours. At 21.30GMT on Friday 8th October, we are starting to recover from an incredible 24 hours which culminated in 14 of the crew battening themselves down below while the deck became inhabited solely by those with a stomach for a sea state which skipper David described as 'awesome', and wind speeds constantly in excess of 50 knots, and gusting to near 60.
'I have never seen anything like those waves on a Challenge boat', he admitted - later - which is just as well because those of us who were by this point cowering under the table might have become even more unnerved by the news that this was virgin territory for him too! This kind of weather - a Force 10 - is described for those who might find it hard to visualise as 'seldom experienced inland; trees uprooted; considerable structural damage' (Beaufort scale).
Crawling reluctantly out of our damp but warm bunks and going on watch at 2am was rather like leaving the house and getting hit by a cricket bat. Having sailed into the centre of an impressive low, we were struck by a downburst and surrounded by thunder and huge sheets of lightning. The latter lent the whole nightmare a filmic quality as again and again it lit up the scene of mayhem on the otherwise pitch-black deck.
One moment we were sailing along with the headsail poled out, the next we were pinned down by a huge gust which nailed the sail to the forestay and caused the fabric to rip and numerous hanks to come apart. This initial scene of horror behind us and dealt with, the watch being replaced were put on standby in full wet-weather gear in the saloon. Exhausted and longing for bed, they were soon required back on deck, as the reefs followed one another in quick succession and sail area was reduced. Before long we had the main down completely and were flying along with just our storm staysail and no3 - the stay a luminous brave red banner in a wild expanse of angry sea.
In the snakepit, things were far too hectic to even take in the sea, which for all its fury was a beautiful sight, but at the helm, Andrew Smith felt 'fine' as the winds increased to a constant 45 knots - until he looked behind him and saw the size of the waves. By daylight these had built to around 40 feet - although by this point it was just David and three adrenalin junkies on the deck. One such, John Bass, related how the skipper, seemingly delighted with this new challenge, was zipping around the boat tweaking this and that, ensuring that all was safe, and that at one point he zoomed up to foredeck, video camera in hand, to capture a frame of the almost submerged cockpit and its whooping occupants.
There was absolutely no way that I was going up there! Things down below presented quite enough of a challenge with sails to be mended valiantly by Goldie (Raley) and Sasha - known to us as 'Russia's greatest sewing machine' - tea to be supplied and comfort to be proffered to those of us who were scared.
It is a night we will none of us forget in a hurry - and its high point, which came at around 11 this morning, was really something. Trying to grab a couple of hours' sleep, we heard David's voice booming into the 'back bedroom' - 'Hey guys!! You want to hear something?.... We're in the bl**dy lead!!' The boat erupted - nothing could have chased away the night horrors more effectively!
'I have never seen anything like those waves on a Challenge boat', he admitted - later - which is just as well because those of us who were by this point cowering under the table might have become even more unnerved by the news that this was virgin territory for him too! This kind of weather - a Force 10 - is described for those who might find it hard to visualise as 'seldom experienced inland; trees uprooted; considerable structural damage' (Beaufort scale).
Crawling reluctantly out of our damp but warm bunks and going on watch at 2am was rather like leaving the house and getting hit by a cricket bat. Having sailed into the centre of an impressive low, we were struck by a downburst and surrounded by thunder and huge sheets of lightning. The latter lent the whole nightmare a filmic quality as again and again it lit up the scene of mayhem on the otherwise pitch-black deck.
One moment we were sailing along with the headsail poled out, the next we were pinned down by a huge gust which nailed the sail to the forestay and caused the fabric to rip and numerous hanks to come apart. This initial scene of horror behind us and dealt with, the watch being replaced were put on standby in full wet-weather gear in the saloon. Exhausted and longing for bed, they were soon required back on deck, as the reefs followed one another in quick succession and sail area was reduced. Before long we had the main down completely and were flying along with just our storm staysail and no3 - the stay a luminous brave red banner in a wild expanse of angry sea.
In the snakepit, things were far too hectic to even take in the sea, which for all its fury was a beautiful sight, but at the helm, Andrew Smith felt 'fine' as the winds increased to a constant 45 knots - until he looked behind him and saw the size of the waves. By daylight these had built to around 40 feet - although by this point it was just David and three adrenalin junkies on the deck. One such, John Bass, related how the skipper, seemingly delighted with this new challenge, was zipping around the boat tweaking this and that, ensuring that all was safe, and that at one point he zoomed up to foredeck, video camera in hand, to capture a frame of the almost submerged cockpit and its whooping occupants.
There was absolutely no way that I was going up there! Things down below presented quite enough of a challenge with sails to be mended valiantly by Goldie (Raley) and Sasha - known to us as 'Russia's greatest sewing machine' - tea to be supplied and comfort to be proffered to those of us who were scared.
It is a night we will none of us forget in a hurry - and its high point, which came at around 11 this morning, was really something. Trying to grab a couple of hours' sleep, we heard David's voice booming into the 'back bedroom' - 'Hey guys!! You want to hear something?.... We're in the bl**dy lead!!' The boat erupted - nothing could have chased away the night horrors more effectively!
Leg 1 Protest blitz hits Global Challenge
Taken from News Report by Elaine Bunting, Yachting World on 8 October 2004
Controversy swept the Global Challenge fleet this afternoon as seven of the 12 yacht crews were informed of the race committee's intention to protest them for a rules infringement. The committee believes that Barclays, BG Spirit, BP Explorer, Save the Children, Pindar, SAIC and Team Stelmar all disobeyed the general sailing instructions by cutting across the Ushant Traffic Separation Scheme (TSS) on day two of the race.
"The general sailing instructions refer to Rule 10 of the Collision Regulations," says Matthew Ratsey, Challenge Business technical director and a member of the race committee. Rule 10 b (ii) states that vessels should 'so far as practicable keep clear of a traffic separation line or separation zone'.
"From plots we can see some boats clearly made a conscious effort to avoid it, and we have others which blatantly did not," comments Ratsey. "We have definite plots of three of them in the TSS. With the others there are plots effectively on either side, but until we get their logs we can't be sure. We will have 24 hours after the boats get to Buenos Aires to examine the logs and lodge a protest."
The international jury will hear the protest in Buenos Aires. If it is upheld, they may choose to dock a point from teams, one point being equivalent to one place. Juries often favour a softly softly approach to infringements on ocean races - think of the £1,000 fine illbruck received during the last Volvo Ocean Race for breaking class rules by fixing a weed cutting device to the S-drive - but ignoring a rule that underlines the Collision Regulations would seem to be a much more serious offence.
Whatever the outcome, these seven crews have another pressure-cooker month at sea in which to rue the potential consequences.
This morning the race gained a new leader as David Melville and crew on BP Explorer pinched the lead from Isle of Sark. Yesterday, Isle of Sark broke their 1.5oz spinnaker, which tore across the head and ripped down the tapes. The Sark crew will be busy stapling it back together in the next couple of days.
The fleet has been sailing fast downwind in the last 24 hours, racing towards a low pressure system off Portugal which is intensifying and is forecast to deepen to 985mb by midnight tonight. By this time the yachts should have reached the south-western quadrant and will be broad reaching into decreasing winds. As they do, they will meet lumpy beam seas and life will temporarily be less comfortable.
Today's position reports illustrate a variety of tactics, with two distinct packs forming: one to the west, headed by Matt Riddell and crew on Samsung; the others to the east and closer to the rhumb line, headed by BP Explorer and Isle of Sark.
The aim in both cases is get far enough west to sail over the top of approaching low and down its western flank, so keeping in favourable winds, yet not so far west as to add unnecessary miles. In the next 12 hours we will see if the eastern group have managed to shape a course that skirts lighter winds near the centre of the low.
This weekend, it looks like the fleet will be fast reaching, which will be hard on gear and stressful for crew. Only the most adept helmsmen will be used and, at this early stage of the race, those are going to be few and far between. To add to their difficulties, the waning moon will be rising later and later in the morning, so during the night helmsmen will have the horrid job of trying to anticipate waves in pitch darkness.
Controversy swept the Global Challenge fleet this afternoon as seven of the 12 yacht crews were informed of the race committee's intention to protest them for a rules infringement. The committee believes that Barclays, BG Spirit, BP Explorer, Save the Children, Pindar, SAIC and Team Stelmar all disobeyed the general sailing instructions by cutting across the Ushant Traffic Separation Scheme (TSS) on day two of the race.
"The general sailing instructions refer to Rule 10 of the Collision Regulations," says Matthew Ratsey, Challenge Business technical director and a member of the race committee. Rule 10 b (ii) states that vessels should 'so far as practicable keep clear of a traffic separation line or separation zone'.
"From plots we can see some boats clearly made a conscious effort to avoid it, and we have others which blatantly did not," comments Ratsey. "We have definite plots of three of them in the TSS. With the others there are plots effectively on either side, but until we get their logs we can't be sure. We will have 24 hours after the boats get to Buenos Aires to examine the logs and lodge a protest."
The international jury will hear the protest in Buenos Aires. If it is upheld, they may choose to dock a point from teams, one point being equivalent to one place. Juries often favour a softly softly approach to infringements on ocean races - think of the £1,000 fine illbruck received during the last Volvo Ocean Race for breaking class rules by fixing a weed cutting device to the S-drive - but ignoring a rule that underlines the Collision Regulations would seem to be a much more serious offence.
Whatever the outcome, these seven crews have another pressure-cooker month at sea in which to rue the potential consequences.
This morning the race gained a new leader as David Melville and crew on BP Explorer pinched the lead from Isle of Sark. Yesterday, Isle of Sark broke their 1.5oz spinnaker, which tore across the head and ripped down the tapes. The Sark crew will be busy stapling it back together in the next couple of days.
The fleet has been sailing fast downwind in the last 24 hours, racing towards a low pressure system off Portugal which is intensifying and is forecast to deepen to 985mb by midnight tonight. By this time the yachts should have reached the south-western quadrant and will be broad reaching into decreasing winds. As they do, they will meet lumpy beam seas and life will temporarily be less comfortable.
Today's position reports illustrate a variety of tactics, with two distinct packs forming: one to the west, headed by Matt Riddell and crew on Samsung; the others to the east and closer to the rhumb line, headed by BP Explorer and Isle of Sark.
The aim in both cases is get far enough west to sail over the top of approaching low and down its western flank, so keeping in favourable winds, yet not so far west as to add unnecessary miles. In the next 12 hours we will see if the eastern group have managed to shape a course that skirts lighter winds near the centre of the low.
This weekend, it looks like the fleet will be fast reaching, which will be hard on gear and stressful for crew. Only the most adept helmsmen will be used and, at this early stage of the race, those are going to be few and far between. To add to their difficulties, the waning moon will be rising later and later in the morning, so during the night helmsmen will have the horrid job of trying to anticipate waves in pitch darkness.
Thursday, October 7, 2004
Leg 1 Day 5 : 42' 15N 11' 21W
Very, very scary. This is one way to describe last night's sleigh ride down past the north-west coast of Spain. Whilst most of the rest of the fleet appeared to have headed further west, we made south in search of the stronger winds off Finisterre which skipper David has encountered on numerous occasions when sailing in the opposite direction - towards home - with his wife Kate.
We certainly found them. Or perhaps I should say they found us... and we got more than we bargained for. Designed to take up to around 12 knots of apparent wind, the 1.5oz kite suddenly had to contend with over 18 knots. First we had to gybe the kite, and in the rolling seas the boom crashed back and forth over our heads while it was centered. Later the wind strengthened again and and we pitched and rolled ever faster through the gloom. The moon made a hasty exit, to be replaced by ominous clouds, and on deck we felt as if we had been plonked aboard a highly-strung, out-of-control horse and told to gallop blindfold downhill with no reins.
Those in their bunks tightened their lee cloths and offered up silent thanks that they were down below in relative safety. Some clinging to sleep even slammed shut the forward watertight bulkhead door to drown out our shouts (this later raised a smile!) In the snakepit we tried desperately to continue to think logically and swap and change seven urgently-required ropes between the three winches whilst receiving barked (and inevitably different!) instructions simultaneously from bow and helm. The latter meanwhile was managing to oversee the whole operation whilst narrowly avoiding a nasty broach which would have seen us over on our ear and risking boom and crew. Hearts pounding, ropes everywhere, pouring sweat and with a few bruises to show for it, we just about managed the situation and emerged shaken but not hurt, the only losses being an expensive spinnaker sheet and an irritating number of mugs overboard.
On the plus side, it looks like our wind hunt has paid off. At least we have our fingers crossed that this is the case. At 22.00 GMT it appeared (and the position reports came in very sketchily over the VHF) that we had widened the gap between ourselves and those behind us.
Unfortunately it does not seem that we managed to make up ground on Spirit of Sark at all. No doubt the imminent position reports at 11.00 local time will shed more light on the
matter. Meanwhile we continue the merry-go-round. Having spent most of the early hours with our headsails poled out (or 'goosewinging'), we are now 100 miles off the Portuguese coast and back to flanker (a heavier spinnaker) and
enjoying the ride.
We certainly found them. Or perhaps I should say they found us... and we got more than we bargained for. Designed to take up to around 12 knots of apparent wind, the 1.5oz kite suddenly had to contend with over 18 knots. First we had to gybe the kite, and in the rolling seas the boom crashed back and forth over our heads while it was centered. Later the wind strengthened again and and we pitched and rolled ever faster through the gloom. The moon made a hasty exit, to be replaced by ominous clouds, and on deck we felt as if we had been plonked aboard a highly-strung, out-of-control horse and told to gallop blindfold downhill with no reins.
Those in their bunks tightened their lee cloths and offered up silent thanks that they were down below in relative safety. Some clinging to sleep even slammed shut the forward watertight bulkhead door to drown out our shouts (this later raised a smile!) In the snakepit we tried desperately to continue to think logically and swap and change seven urgently-required ropes between the three winches whilst receiving barked (and inevitably different!) instructions simultaneously from bow and helm. The latter meanwhile was managing to oversee the whole operation whilst narrowly avoiding a nasty broach which would have seen us over on our ear and risking boom and crew. Hearts pounding, ropes everywhere, pouring sweat and with a few bruises to show for it, we just about managed the situation and emerged shaken but not hurt, the only losses being an expensive spinnaker sheet and an irritating number of mugs overboard.
On the plus side, it looks like our wind hunt has paid off. At least we have our fingers crossed that this is the case. At 22.00 GMT it appeared (and the position reports came in very sketchily over the VHF) that we had widened the gap between ourselves and those behind us.
Unfortunately it does not seem that we managed to make up ground on Spirit of Sark at all. No doubt the imminent position reports at 11.00 local time will shed more light on the
matter. Meanwhile we continue the merry-go-round. Having spent most of the early hours with our headsails poled out (or 'goosewinging'), we are now 100 miles off the Portuguese coast and back to flanker (a heavier spinnaker) and
enjoying the ride.
Wednesday, October 6, 2004
Leg 1 Day 4: Bay of Biscay 45°04'54.9"N 8°21'28.9"W
The warm weather seems to be ever closer as Day 4, Wednesday 6th October, opens upon us with clear skies and a light breeze. La Coruna lies approximately 80 miles to the south, whilst we are yet 100 miles shy of Finisterre. Breakfast this morning was a triumph - porridge and warm rolls
care of our culinary genius Major are always a trea (especially when they come after 'pasta pesto' - never a treat, especially in the eyes of the two Italians aboard - Valeria Rosa and Christian Talpo). As the crew become more rested and learn to settle into the watch system, increasing numbers seem to be awake towards the end of their six hours off during the day. This has created more time for starting to manage the domestic arrangements a little better - which can only be a good thing as the boat is beginning to smell medievally male, despite all efforts with our fantastic aromatherapy air freshener (thanks Kate x).
Awake by nine this morning (and not due on until midday), I allowed myself, for example, three luxuries - washing myself (hair wash not allowed until after one week), washing my socks etc. and a vaguely successful attempt at brushing my hair. BLISS. Odours might be marginally improved by increasingly successful bread baking and seasickness finally being left behind in our wake, but it seems our neoprene-lined boots are compounding the cheese factor! A universal sock-washing order will no doubt soon be announced.
Still on starboard tack, we have had a difficult night in terms of keeping the boat going in the light and somewhat fickle winds which saw a series of sail changes; the sail plan was altered from head sails (No.1 and staysail) to flanker (the heaviest kite, 2.2oz), back to head sails, to the 1.5oz spinnaker, and now, at 9.36 GMT, the 0.75oz (which we are currently flying close to the edge). Needless to say we have got through a lot of wool in the packing and re-packing process and it is a case of wellies on, wellies off, ad infinitum, in an effort to tread softly around our precious kites. Anyone not obeying this rule is soon barked at by each and every member of the sail-repair team (the tiniest of holes could lead to endless hours sewing!)
Against a backdrop of a magnificent night sky, sporadically illuminated by brilliant shooting stars, the tension of those on the 10-2a.m. watch was also compounded by the fact that a yacht was sighted off the starboard quarter. This meant one of two things - we had either made significant ground on the race leaders, Spirit of Sark, or we had lost ground to one of the yachts behind - Barclays Adventurer or Team Stelmar. Agonisingly, we will not know our fate until the position reports later this morning....
care of our culinary genius Major are always a trea (especially when they come after 'pasta pesto' - never a treat, especially in the eyes of the two Italians aboard - Valeria Rosa and Christian Talpo). As the crew become more rested and learn to settle into the watch system, increasing numbers seem to be awake towards the end of their six hours off during the day. This has created more time for starting to manage the domestic arrangements a little better - which can only be a good thing as the boat is beginning to smell medievally male, despite all efforts with our fantastic aromatherapy air freshener (thanks Kate x).
Awake by nine this morning (and not due on until midday), I allowed myself, for example, three luxuries - washing myself (hair wash not allowed until after one week), washing my socks etc. and a vaguely successful attempt at brushing my hair. BLISS. Odours might be marginally improved by increasingly successful bread baking and seasickness finally being left behind in our wake, but it seems our neoprene-lined boots are compounding the cheese factor! A universal sock-washing order will no doubt soon be announced.
Still on starboard tack, we have had a difficult night in terms of keeping the boat going in the light and somewhat fickle winds which saw a series of sail changes; the sail plan was altered from head sails (No.1 and staysail) to flanker (the heaviest kite, 2.2oz), back to head sails, to the 1.5oz spinnaker, and now, at 9.36 GMT, the 0.75oz (which we are currently flying close to the edge). Needless to say we have got through a lot of wool in the packing and re-packing process and it is a case of wellies on, wellies off, ad infinitum, in an effort to tread softly around our precious kites. Anyone not obeying this rule is soon barked at by each and every member of the sail-repair team (the tiniest of holes could lead to endless hours sewing!)
Against a backdrop of a magnificent night sky, sporadically illuminated by brilliant shooting stars, the tension of those on the 10-2a.m. watch was also compounded by the fact that a yacht was sighted off the starboard quarter. This meant one of two things - we had either made significant ground on the race leaders, Spirit of Sark, or we had lost ground to one of the yachts behind - Barclays Adventurer or Team Stelmar. Agonisingly, we will not know our fate until the position reports later this morning....
Tuesday, October 5, 2004
Leg 1 Day 3: South of Brest 48°15'00.2"N 5°00'47.7"W
At 8.55 GMT BP Explorer is bowling along close-hauled just south of Brest and, most importantly, with the lead boat in sight off the starboard bow. Spirits are considerably improved on deck this morning. As the seasickness which has debilitated perhaps up to two-thirds of the crew begins to ease its grip, we are able to savour our promising position, some fantastic weather - sunshine and an average of 17 knots of breeze - and a return to some proper food (relatively speaking of course!) Not that we are now trouble-free. That would be far too easy.
This morning sees us still being plagued by a duo of technical hitches. We find ourselves unable to run the generator (vital for providing power to our instruments, etc.) and our mechnical experts have their heads planted inside the monster trying to solve the problem.
Meanwhile, back at the chart table, our weather information has become somewhat patchy thanks to difficulties downloading email. The ramifications of this are that it is hard to decide whether we will get lifted by the wind on this tack (starboard) sufficiently to clear Finisterre, or whether we should put in a tack soon - all vital information when it comes to the struggle to catch the lead boat!
This morning sees us still being plagued by a duo of technical hitches. We find ourselves unable to run the generator (vital for providing power to our instruments, etc.) and our mechnical experts have their heads planted inside the monster trying to solve the problem.
Meanwhile, back at the chart table, our weather information has become somewhat patchy thanks to difficulties downloading email. The ramifications of this are that it is hard to decide whether we will get lifted by the wind on this tack (starboard) sufficiently to clear Finisterre, or whether we should put in a tack soon - all vital information when it comes to the struggle to catch the lead boat!
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